Omega has unveiled two new additions to its esteemed Moonwatch collection, presenting models with a distinctive "Reverse Panda" dial configuration. These timepieces showcase a lustrous black dial contrasted with sunken white sub-dials, offering a fresh aesthetic for enthusiasts. Crafted in both resilient stainless steel and the luxurious 18K Moonshine Gold, these new variants maintain the iconic Speedmaster Professional silhouette while introducing refined details. This release follows the successful white-dial Speedmaster Professional from 2024, demonstrating Omega's continuous evolution of its celebrated series.
In 2019, Omega initiated a significant update to its Speedmaster Professional range, drawing inspiration from the fourth-generation Speedmasters (reference 105.012). This revitalization commenced with limited-edition Apollo 11 models, offered in full 18K Moonshine Gold, a steel version with a Moonshine Gold bezel, and a platinum edition. While the platinum model housed the 321 movement, the other two Apollo 11 limited editions were pioneers in featuring the innovative caliber 3861. Subsequently, in 2021, the standard steel Speedmaster Professional underwent a comprehensive enhancement, receiving a fourth-generation-style case, the advanced caliber 3861, and a redesigned bracelet, among other improvements. These strategic introductions have progressively diversified the Moonwatch family.
Building on this momentum, Omega later introduced a new array of 42mm Master Chronometer-certified Moonwatch models, incorporating various gold alloys such as Moonshine (yellow), Sedna (red), and Canopus (white) Gold. Additionally, the brand unveiled two bicolor Moonwatch options that combine steel with either Sedna or Moonshine Gold. A notable release was the classic Moonwatch with a white dial, a highly anticipated variant that further broadened the collection's appeal. For clarity, the Moonwatch collection prior to the latest release included nine distinct models, not accounting for diverse strap choices. Among these were the classic Speedmaster Professional with a Hesalite crystal and another version with sapphire crystals on both the front and back. The latter is distinguishable by its applied logo and polished intermediate links on the bracelet, catering to diverse preferences within the purist and modern enthusiast communities.
Today's announcement further enriches the standard collection with two "Reverse Panda" models, one in stainless steel and another in Omega's signature Moonshine Gold alloy. These new offerings, while largely mirroring existing Moonwatch designs, introduce innovative dual-layered dials. The sub-dials are now set deeper within the main dial, contributing to a sense of enhanced dimensionality. The stainless steel version matches the thickness of the Hesalite standard Moonwatch model. Both new references are also upgraded with ceramic bezel inserts, replacing the traditional aluminum, adding a touch of contemporary refinement and durability.
The "Reverse Panda" dial design is not entirely new to the Speedmaster lineage, having appeared in earlier "Reduced" models and notably in the 2017 Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday limited edition. The latter paid homage to the Speedmaster Professional utilized during the 1980s Space Shuttle missions, distinguished by its radial dial. However, the current "Reverse Panda" iteration sets itself apart with a glossy dial, achieved through a sophisticated two-plate construction. The top layer is a polished black, finished with multiple varnished and lacquered coatings to impart a deep sheen, complemented by rhodium-plated sub-dial frames. The underlying layer of the sub-dials is a contrasting white, also treated with varnish and lacquer. The main dial features a white transferred minute track, while the sub-dials display black transferred markings, all beneath over twenty layers of lacquer for a truly luxurious finish.
The Moonshine Gold "Reverse Panda" variant is further distinguished by gold hour markers with a diamond-polished finish, a gold bezel embedding a ceramic insert with a tachymeter scale, and the classic Dot Over Ninety (DON) filled with white enamel. Its hands are crafted from solid Moonshine Gold, with the exception of the chronograph seconds hand, which receives a Moonshine Gold PVD coating to optimize weight. Weighing a substantial 215 grams, with 185 grams attributed to solid gold, this timepiece is a significant presence on the wrist. In contrast, the stainless steel model weighs 144 grams on its "Nixon"-style bracelet. Both versions feature 20mm end links that gracefully taper to 15mm at the clasp, which includes a sliding mechanism for a 2.3mm adjustment in two increments.
Both new Speedmaster models are powered by the caliber 3861 movement, which holds Master Chronometer certification. This advanced movement features a Co-Axial escapement and a silicon balance spring, providing resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. Operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, it offers a 50-hour power reserve. The movement's decoration includes rhodium plating, arabesque Geneva waves, circular graining, gold-plated engravings, and satin-finished chronograph components with polished, beveled edges. A transparent case back on both references allows for visual appreciation of this meticulously crafted chronograph caliber. On the wrist, the Moonshine Gold version is undeniably striking, while the stainless steel "Reverse Panda" offers broad appeal. Its glossy black dial and deeply set white lacquered sub-dials create a captivating visual effect. The rhodium-plated hands, with their diamond-polished finish, ensure excellent legibility, addressing past concerns some enthusiasts had about less contrasting hands in other models. These modern Moonwatches, with their box-form sapphire crystal, applied indexes and logo, and ceramic bezels, offer a luxurious interpretation of the classic Speedmaster Professional.